Looking for an interesting Picos de Europa itinerary with all the big attractions and some quiet days on the road to soak up the scenery? Our road trip in the national park is the best way to see the Picos over 7 days.
It took us a while to get to the Picos. We spend a lot of time on the Spanish coast, unwinding on the beaches and getting a break from the dreary London weather.
When we’re ready for a mountain escape, we instinctively look towards the Alps.
So, the Picos was an area we’d always put in the “we’ll get there eventually bucket,” and we both agreed that it was about time we rectified this oversight.
And we’re glad we did.
The Picos de Europa are the most dramatic section of the Cantabrian Mountains in Northern Spain. At only 2,650 metres high, they’re not the colossal giants of the Alps. But their rugged summits and sharp pinnacles create some of the finest scenery in Europe.
We recently spent 7 days on a road trip in the Picos, exploring the medieval villages dotted along the valleys, hiking dramatic trails and simply driving around admiring the scenery.
The Picos feel decidedly Spanish, with excellent (and cheap) tapas bars, no-frills local restaurants, and locals who are still smiling because they aren’t inundated with tourists year-round.
We’ve previously written about our favourite things to do in the Picos, but this guide is a day-by-day breakdown for how you could structure a road trip in the area.
We have suggestions for where to stay, practical information about opening times, ticket requirements and parking, and ideas for what to do.
We hope you enjoy the area as much as we did.
ROAD TRIP OVERVIEW
The highlights of the Picos are spread across the region, and public transport is irregular and slow.
There is no central location from which to explore, so the best way to see the Picos is by hiring a car, circumnavigating the mountain range, and dipping in to see the sights.
Here’s how we suggest you spend a 7-day itinerary.
MAP OF OUR DRIVING ROUTE
Below is a map of the Picos de Europa with all our favourite things to do and suggested places to stay.
The blue line is the driving route we took through the Picos.
USING OUR MAPS. Click on the top right corner to open in the Google Maps app. Click on the star to save to your Google account.
HOW TO GET THERE?
We spent the first night of this itinerary in Poncebos, but you could also stay nearby in Las Arenas de Cabrales.
There are three convenient international airports for getting to Poncebos:
- Santander Airport in Cantabria – 1 hour 30-minute drive to Poncebos.
- Asturias Airport in Asturias – 1 hour 50-minute drive to Poncebos.
- Bilbao Airport in Basque Country – 2-hour 25-minute drive to Poncebos.
The above airports have direct flights from the UK and other European destinations as well as domestic flights from within Spain.
Santander is the most convenient option. It has more arrivals, and it’s the closest to the start of our itinerary.
We actually had an extra day at the start of this itinerary. We flew into Bilbao and spent the next day exploring the town centre.
We returned to the magnificent Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim, which we had visited around 10 years earlier, and it was as good as we remembered. The charming streets of Ledesma are great to stroll around, and we had some amazing pintxos in the old town square.
HIRING A CAR
Each airport has car hire facilities from most of the major car rental companies.
All the roads on this itinerary are paved and easily accessible in a 2WD.
If you hire a 4×4, you can access the gravel tracks that cross the mountains, but there is no need to.
Hiring a car in Spain is often cheaper than in other European countries, particularly if you choose a manual (stick shift) vehicle.
Automatic cars can sometimes be surprisingly difficult to find, so if you specifically want one, make sure you confirm at the time of booking.
Many rental firms are transitioning to electric fleets, and it isn’t always clear which vehicles are petrol or electric, so be cautious when you make your booking.
We accidentally ordered an electric car for this road trip, but they swapped it out because there are not enough charging points in this specific part of Spain yet.
The local firms are often cheaper, but we have mixed experiences with them.
However, one recommendation we could make is Centauro. They have always offered us good service, and their prices are significantly better than those of the major car rental companies. The downside is that it usually involves a shuttle ride from the airport terminal.
Use the form below to check car rental prices.
DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY
ARRIVING
After landing, pick up your hire car from the airport and drive to the Picos, spending the night in either Poncebos or Las Arenas de Cabrales.
Poncebos is dramatically set and is the more convenient location. The Ruta del Cares hike and Bulnes funicular both begin here.
However, it’s small with only a few rustic 2-star hotels. It’s a popular choice for hikers because you can leave your car while hiking. The hotels all serve food in the evening.
Las Arenas de Cabrales is a charming place situated along the river.
It’s much larger than Poncebos, with a greater choice of hotels, restaurants, and shops.
The downside is that you need to drive to Poncebos to explore the Cares Gorge and to get the Bulnes funicular. Parking in Poncebos can be quite limited during the peak season, so you’ll either need to arrive early or take the shuttle bus.
WHERE TO STAY?
Plan to spend 2 nights in either Poncebos or Las Arenas. You can find all accommodation suggestions on our where to stay in the Picos guide, but here are some suggestions:
Arcea Mirador De Cabrales – (Poncebos) This is where Paul and I stayed. It’s an excellent value 2-star hotel with good-sized rooms and breakfast included. They do dinner each night, which is handy given the remote location.
Hotel Villa De Cabrales – (Las Arenas) This comfortable, modern hotel is in a renovated country home that retains much of its charm. It’s located in the centre of Las Arenas and offers easy parking across the street.
DAY 1: CARES GORGE
The most dramatic part of the Picos de Europa is the Cares Gorge. The Rio Cares has carved a remarkable canyon that is only a few metres wide in places. The canyon walls rise to 2,000-metre peaks.
The Ruta del Cares is a breathtaking hiking trail and the highlight of a trip to the Picos. The path has been cut into the canyon wall, hovering 100 to 200 metres above the river below as it winds its way along the near-vertical valley walls.
On our first full day in the Picos, we hiked the trail from Poncebos to Caín and then back again.
The path is not too hilly, and although it’s only a couple of metres wide, it feels quite safe.
It takes about three hours to reach Caín, a tiny village nestled in a dell in the mountains.
It’s the perfect spot for lunch with snack bars and restaurants set in magnificent scenery. Try the cider and chorizo or the local fabada beans.
This is a great walk but a long day, so bring plenty of water. You can find all the information on hiking Ruta del Cares here. Paul and I think it’s the best hike we’ve done in Spain.
If you don’t fancy doing the whole walk, hike from Poncebos for about 45 minutes to the crest of the hill. Even from there the views are amazing and you get a great sense of the tightness of the valley.
Spend the night back in Poncebos or Las Arenas.
DAY 2: BULNES & SOTRES
Today we drove to Covadonga, but there are a few sights around Poncebos that are worth checking out before you set off.
Bulnes is a little village high up in the mountains. It’s a lovely spot and the gateway to adventurous hikes in the Central Massif of the Picos.
It used to take a couple of hours to hike here, but a funicular now connects Poncebos and Bulnes, making it much more accessible for everyone.
The delightfully peaceful village has no cars and just a couple of pretty cafes and restaurants set along the river. It’s a great spot for morning coffee or lunch.
A short 10-minute trail takes you to a viewpoint looking up at the iconic Naranjo de Bulnes massif.
HOW TO GET TO BULNES?
The Bulnes funicular leaves from Poncebos. It runs every 30 minutes and takes just 7 minutes to reach Bulnes.
High Season Opening Hours – 10 am to 8 pm
Low Season Opening Hours – 10 am to 6 pm (with a break from 12:30 pm to 2 pm for lunch)
You can’t book tickets in advance so you may have to queue for a while, although they often run extra funiculars when busy.
Parking — There is very little parking at the bottom, so we stayed in one of the hotels in Poncebos. This allowed us to leave the car at the hotel and walk to the funicular station. If you are visiting in summer, arriving just before it opens is a good idea.
Bus – Otherwise there’s a bus from Las Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos that runs hourly from June to mid-October.
DRIVE TO SOTRES
After (or before) visiting Bulnes drive to Sotres, the highest village in the Picos de Europa. Perched on a ledge overlooking the Duje Valley, it’s a small traditional village with wonderful views.
Sotres is famous for producing Cabrales Cheese, a type of blue cheese which is aged for two to five months in limestone caves in the mountains.
A tiny shop in the village sells a local variety, although their opening hours are a little hard to decipher.
In addition to the cheese shop, there’s a village shop, a café and a bakery, but that’s about it.
The real highlight of our trip to Sotres was the drive from Poncebos. The sinuous paved road along the Duje Valley offers wonderful views.
DRIVE TO CANGAS DE ONIS
Once you have finished sightseeing, drive towards Cangas de Onis, the gateway to the Covadonga lakes.
On the way, stop for a potter around Las Arenas de Cabrales and at Poo de Cabrales viewpoint. The viewpoint has a car park right next to the main road and wonderful views across the Picos.
WHERE TO STAY?
We now suggest you spend 2 nights either in Cangas de Onis (not the prettiest town) or on the road between Cangas and Covadonga.
Hotel Ecos Del Sella – (Covadonga) Located on the route between Cangas de Onís and the lakes, this modern and stylish three-star hotel is thoughtfully designed. It features an eco-friendly approach, ample parking, and reasonably priced rooms.
Hotel Mirador De La Cepada – (Cangas De Onis) Set on a hill above Cangas de Onis and overlooking the Sella River, they have spacious, high-quality modern rooms in a beautiful hotel. It can feel business-like, but the rooms are a cut above and the bar and restaurant have great views over the mountains. The only downside is it’s a bit of a walk (or short drive) into town.
DAY 3: COVADONGA SANCTUARY & LAKES
The northwestern section of the Picos is centred around the less-than-charming town of Cangas de Onis.
However, a road leaves the town and gradually winds high into the mountains to some excellent attractions in the Picos.
The first stop is the Covadonga Sanctuary.
COVADONGA SANCTUARY
In 718 CE Covadonga was the site of a battle between Pelayo, a nobleman and founder of Asturias, and the Moors. The fight is considered the first strike in the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula from the Muslims.
A chapel was built inside a cave to house a statue of the Virgin Mary, believed to have aided the Christian victory.
The chapel and statue were destroyed in a fire in 1777, but they were rebuilt, and the cave remains a place of pilgrimage for Christians.
Today, the cave is known as the Covadonga Sanctuary. The complex includes a statue of Pelayo and the beautiful San Fernando Basilica, which is nestled in the mountain scenery.
It takes just an hour to look around, but it’s a lovely stop in a beautiful setting.
COVADONGA LAKES
The road continues to climb from the sanctuary before reaching the Covadonga Lakes.
At 1,000 metres in altitude, they are one of the most scenic places in the Picos (when they aren’t shrouded in clouds, which they were on our visit).
There are a host of things to do here:
- The Pedro Pidal Visitors’ Centre explains the area’s geology, flora, fauna, and history.
- The Príncipe Viewpoint has great views of glacial lakes sitting beneath craggy mountain tops.
- The Buferrera Mines have remnants of the past and modern-day sculptures dotted amongst the ruins.
- There are walks of all types, from short lakeside strolls to all-day hikes into the mountains.
We did the 2-hour Ruta de Los Lagos hiking trail, which circumnavigates the two biggest lakes, Lago de Enol and Lago de la Ercina.
It was a worthy stop on our road trip, but there is no denying we could have had better weather, as you can see in the photos below.
GETTING TO THE COVADONGA LAKES
The road from Covadonga Sanctuary to Covadonga Lakes is paved but narrow, steep, and busy, even on our relatively quiet day there.
In peak season, the road is closed to private vehicles, and access is only allowed on the shuttle bus.
The bus starts in Cangas de Onis and stops at El Repelao (next to Covadonga Sanctuary) before ending at Covadonga Lakes.
Peak season is 8.00 am to 7.00 pm, June to September, and most weekends in April, May and October. It is €9 return for adults from Cangas de Onis.
If you want to take your own car during peak season, you need to go through the gate to the lakes (next to Covadonga Sanctuary) before 7:30 am. You can make the return journey at any time.
DAY 4: HIGH PASSES OF VALDEÓN
This was a fairly relaxed driving day from Cangas de Onis to Potes. There’s not too much to do today other than finding somewhere for lunch and stopping off at some wonderful viewpoints.
The route heads over high passes and through steeply walled valleys. It’s a beautiful drive.
VALDEÓN
Head south from Cangas de Onís (or wherever you stayed last night) on the N-625.
En route, the road cuts through the Desfiladero de Sella. The steep-sided walls of this deep ravine sandwich the road and the river as they twist and turn along the bottom of the gorge.
Turn left onto the LE-2711 and proceed to Posada de Valdeón. There are a few things you can do from the town.
Option 1 is to have lunch at the very local bar, El Desván. You can pick up some tasty tapas and drinks at prices you won’t believe. It’s particularly popular with motorcyclists, and it can get lively at weekends.
CAÍN & CARES GORGE
Option 2 is to head north into the southern end of the Cares Gorge (from the walk we did on day 1).
If you take this option, firstly stop at Mirador del Tombo, just north of Posada de Valdeón. It has excellent views of the southern end of the Cares Gorge.
Then, continue down the road until you reach Caín, the lunch stop on the Ruta del Cares walk from Poncebos.
The road is single-track in places and can take time during peak season, but on a lovely day, Caín is a fantastic spot for lunch.
SAN GLORIA PASS
From Caín, return the way you came and head back to Posada de Valdeón.
Then, head south on the LE-2703. This road is single-lane in places and not in the best condition, but it’s a fun drive and not too difficult. The scenery is wild and remote.
Be sure to stop at the Puerto de Pandetrave viewpoint.
Turn left at Portilla de la Reina and take the N-621 towards Potes.
This national highway crosses the San Glorio Pass. On a clear day (which, sadly, we did not have), the spiky peaks of the Picos can be seen from the car window.
The summit of the pass is known as Puerto San Gloria and sits at an elevation of 1,610 metres.
There is a sizeable car park for hikers and a gravel track marked for Collado de Llesba. It’s worthwhile to take this brief detour (easy in a 2WD), which concludes at a splendid viewpoint and a statue of a bear.
Now, continue on the main road to Potes and the Camaleño Valley.
WHERE TO STAY?
We suggest you spend 3 nights either in Potes or the Camaleño Valley.
Potes is better if you like a town with facilities, but the guesthouses in the Camaleño Valley are excellent, so we’d nudge you towards Posada San Pelayo.
You can find all our suggested places to stay on our where to stay in Picos blog post, but here is our pick in the area.
Posada San Pelayo (Camaleño) – Paul and I stayed at this beautiful, friendly, family-run home surrounded by gardens and a small pool. The guest spaces are lovely, and breakfast can be served in the garden, overlooking the dramatic mountain tops. Highly recommended.
Villa Elena – (Potes) – Set within an orchard, this beautifully decorated house is a popular B&B offering excellent home-cooked breakfasts. Private parking is available, which is very handy. The centre of Potes is only a 10-minute walk away.
DAY 5: FUENTE DÉ CABLE CAR
The western end of the Camaleńo Valley ends at a mighty wall of rock which is a popular destination for climbers.
Fortunately, there is a much easier route to the summit.
The Fuente Dé cable car carries you to the upper station, El Cable, at 1,850 meters.
The journey takes just 4 minutes, but your impression of the Picos is completely transformed. The verdant foothills are left behind and replaced by wild and rugged summits.
The modern cable car station has a café, toilets, and numerous hiking trails that lead into the rocky wilderness.
There are plenty of short there-and-back hikes to get a feel for the area, but if you fancy something longer, Paul and I did the Puertos de Áliva hike (PR PNPE 24), which was fantastic.
PUERTOS DE ÁLIVA HIKE
The path gently rises from the Fuente Dé cable car for around 15 minutes. After this, it’s all downhill.
On the way down, we stopped at Rifugio Áliva, which offers some basic snacks, such as sandwiches, and has a splendid terrace for enjoying the views.
From there, the path winds through a blend of forest and grasslands before finally reaching the lower cable car station (remember to purchase only a single cable car ticket).
It’s a great walk, but it can be a bit muddy, so walking boots are required. The hike is just over 15 kilometres and took us about 5 hours. The total descent is almost 1,000m.
HORCADOS ROJAS HIKE
Another option is the popular Horcados Rojas hike. This walk takes you high into the rocky wilderness of the Picos before taking the cable car back to Fuente Dé.
FUENTE DÉ CABLE CAR DETAILS
Getting There—There is a large car park next to Fuente Dé bottom station, but it fills up quickly on weekends and in summer. We also had quite a long wait for the cable car. If the weather forecast is good and you know your plans, we highly recommend booking cable car tickets online at least a day in advance and arriving early to park.
Opening Hours – The Fuente Dé cable car runs from 8 am to 7 pm (July to September). The rest of the year, the hours are 10 am to 6 pm (Mon-Fri); 9 am to 6 pm (Sat-Sun).
DAY 6: CAMALEÑO VALLEY, MOGROVEJO & POTES
Potes and the Camaleño Valley have their own microclimate, warmer and drier than much of the surrounding Picos. So, after several days of rain, we were happy to be spending a bit of time in the area.
Today, we had a leisurely breakfast at our guesthouse, then took off to visit a few attractions in the following order.
POTES OLD TOWN
Potes is a medieval town and perhaps the most intriguing in the Picos de Europa National Park.
Spanning the River Deva, the southern side features a maze of narrow alleyways lined with wooden and stone houses. The northern side has a few medieval sights, including the 15th-century Torre del Infantado and the church of San Vicente.
Grand stone bridges and a charming town square link the two sides.
If you’re back in the town in the evening, we had dinner at La Barrica de Potes, which we highly recommend. The food was excellent, and the views from the terrace were stunning.
SANTO TORIBIO
The monastery of Santo Toribio, just outside Potes, has been a place of pilgrimage for over a millennium. It contains the Lignum Crucis, which believers say is the left arm of the cross on which Christ was crucified.
It was brought from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem to the monastery by Saint Turibius of Astorga, and many believe it to be the largest surviving piece of the cross.
The relic has made the monastery one of the most important holy sites in Europe. It’s kept in a gilded silver reliquary at the back of the church, but it is difficult to see properly.
There is a nice walk up to the nearby Ermita de San Miguel, with great views over Potes and Camaleño Valley.
MOGROVEJO
The tiny village of Mogrovejo, in the Camaleño Valley, was built between the 16th and 18th centuries.
It has been listed as a site of historic and cultural significance thanks to its interesting monuments, including a medieval tower, a 17th-century church and the unusual houses built with an exposed upper floor.
Clustered tightly together on the slopes, the town has breathtaking views of the mountains. There’s not much to do here, but an hour of strolling its lanes is like a journey back in time.
BREZ HIKE
If you fancy a walk, take this excellent 2-hour loop.
It starts at Brez and heads north uphill through forest and meadows to grand views of the Pico San Carlos and the mountains around it. It returns to Brez on a nearby but similar path
Parking is available on the side of the road entering the village, and the loop is clearly marked on Google Maps.
DAY 7: DESFILADERO DE LA HERMIDA
Today, you can choose between trying an adventure activity or exploring the area between the Picos and the coast.
DESFILADERO OF LA HERMIDA
If you head north from Potes, the road disappears into the Desfiladero of La Hermida. This deep canyon, cut by the River Deva, has high rocky walls and is popular for adventure activities.
If you are into thrills, there are numerous activities to try here:
HEAD TOWARDS THE SEA
If thrills are not your thing, continue north. The area between the Picos and the sea is packed with interesting sights.
First up is the town of Comillas. In the 19th century, Antonio López, Marqués de Comillas, promoted the town and transformed it into an architectural gem. Two buildings stand out.
- El Capricho is a house designed by Gaudi for a wealthy client. It’s bright and colourful and a joy to explore. The audio guide is excellent.
- Palacio de Sobrellano was built as a summer palace for the Marquis. It is a short walk from El Capricho and has a commanding position on the hill. Next door, the chapel is just as striking. Tours are usually in Spanish, so it might be best to just look at the outside.
CAVE AT ALTAMIRA
Next, visit the Cave at Altamira.
Northern Spain is home to several Paleolithic cave paintings that appeared between 35,000 and 13,000 years ago. One of which is at Altamira.
While access to the original is strictly restricted, the replica called the Neo Cave, is a meticulous copy of the true Altamira.
Alongside the reproduction, a highly detailed exhibition explains the findings and the prehistory of Spain.
WHERE TO STAY
On the last day of this itinerary, we stayed at Santillana del Mar. This is a beautiful medieval town with Renaissance palaces, rustic streets and towers.
During the day, it can be heaving with tourists, but in the evening, it’s much more subdued.
It only takes a couple of hours to walk the lanes and poke your head in a few interesting shops.
We had dinner at La Tienda, a friendly bar with an interesting tapas menu. The food and wine were both really good, and it’s a cut above the other tourist-oriented places.
Hotel Colonial de Santillana – An old Colonial house that has been converted into a 3-star hotel. Conveniently located on the main road with its own car park, it is only a short walk into the centre of the old village.
Hotel Cuevas — This rustic building has lovingly designed modern rooms. It is perfectly positioned just across the road from the old village, yet plenty of parking spaces and facilities are nearby. The pool area, outdoor furnished terrace and gardens are a great way to wind down after a week of sightseeing and hiking.
WHEN TO GO
SUMMER
Peak season in the Picos is July and August when the weather is fine and the summits are free of snow.
However, locals flock to the hills for their summer holidays, and the areas around Poncebos and Covadonga can be packed.
JUNE & SEPTEMBER
In our opinion, the best time to complete this road trip itinerary is the shoulder seasons of June and September.
There are fewer visitors over this time, and the days are often clear.
It’s also the best time for hiking. The trails are in excellent condition, with only patches of snow, and the temperatures are generally comfortable.
OCTOBER & MAY
You can also take your chances in October (when autumnal colours come alive) and May (when wildflowers start to bloom).
The downside is that this is low season, so opening hours are reduced. You might also find some snow on the higher ground.
However, the crowds are significantly reduced, it’s easy to get around, and the posadas have more vacancies at better prices.
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