What To Do In Bologna On Your First Visit (+ Map & Tips)

Bologna is a self-assured city with a medieval history and a young, edgy vibe. Linger in moody wine bars, stroll the porticoes, and discover the very best things to do in Bologna.

Bologna is a city that doesn’t feel the need to dress up for tourists; it’s happy just the way it is.

Worn around the edges and slightly scuffed, it’s a contrast from the regular Italian tourist centres where local culture can often be hidden under a mass of over-tourism.

Born of its own character, Bologna is a place that locals know better than tourists.

And it feels like that’s how it will always be.

Bologna has the oldest university in the world with 85,000 students. So it’s old enough to be charming and young enough to be exciting.

We had a fantastic time exploring the many charms of Bologna on our last visit. This guide covers the things we think you shouldn’t miss, along with some less-visited places that we thought demonstrated the true appeal of the city.

HOW TO GET TO BOLOGNA?

FROM THE AIRPORT

Bologna has an international airport, Airport G.Marconi, just a short distance from the town centre.

Taxis – Taxis to the centre of the city will cost around €20 to €30 depending on traffic. In Italy, Taxis are required to accept payment via debit or credit card.

Express Train – We took the Marconi Express train service from the airport to the city. The journey takes 7 minutes and terminates at Bologna Centrale. A single ticket is €12.80 one way or 23.30 return.

BY TRAIN

Bologna Centrale is the major train station in the area with direct lines to many other Italian cities in the area. If you are doing a tour of Italy, connecting Bologna with your other destinations is very easy.

If you’re planning a trip around Italy, you might find our Florence guide useful, and our Rome itinerary. One of our favourite parts of Italy is the Dolomites. Read our first-timer’s guide to the Dolomites to see if it’s for you.

TRAIN JOURNEYS TO BOLOGNA

• Florence to Bologna – 34 minutes
• Milan to Bologna – 1 hour
• Venice to Bologna – 1 hour, 15 minutes
• Rome to Bologna – 2 hours

BEST TIME TO GO TO BOLOGNA

The best time to visit Bologna is during the shoulder seasons of April to June and mid-September to November.

We were there in late September. The temperature was generally comfortable and the main tourist attractions were relatively quiet.

As with most European destinations, summer is the peak season when both the temperature and visitor numbers are high. In winter, it can be wet and cold, with temperatures dropping to near freezing.

Most importantly, keep an eye out for Bologna’s many trade fairs when accommodation prices can double. We visited during the last day of the Ceramics Trade Fair and the accommodation prices were through the roof.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Bologna is a university town, so the population swells by about 100,000 students during term time. This gives the city more of a buzz, and the students are generally not visiting tourist attractions, so we wouldn’t necessarily avoid Bologna for this reason.

HOW LONG DO YOU NEED IN BOLOGNA?

Most of the best things to do in Bologna can be seen in 2 days. 

However, much of the attraction is savouring the energy of the city, so it’s worth taking your time if you have it.

We recommend staying for 3 days in Bologna. Two days to see the sights and one for a day trip.

GETTING AROUND BOLOGNA

Bologna is a very compact city and walking everywhere is achievable for most people.

Our advice is to try to stay as central as possible, and then you probably won’t need a taxi or public transport at all.

The one exception might be the walk along the Portico di San Luca, which is 4 kilometres. Depending on your energy/fitness levels, you may want to get a taxi to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. See the details on this below.

MAP – BOLOGNA

Bologna is situated in northern Italy, serving as the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region. Geographically, it’s positioned between the Po River and the Apennine Mountains.

All the must-visit places in Bologna mentioned in this guide are on the map below.

TOP TOURIST ATTRACTIONS IN BOLOGNA

We would probably say Bologna is not so much about the big tourist attractions and more about ambling rustic laneways, eating some of the best food in Italy and soaking up the unusually relaxed vibe.

But, there are still some great attractions we think you should visit, and these are the top ones.

1. SAN PETRONIO CHURCH

Bologna still feels like a work in progress and Basilica di San Petronio is a fine example of the city’s personality.

Construction began in 1388. After a series of complicated amendments, Pope Pius IV deemed it a pipedream and diverted funds to the university instead.

As a result, San Petronio remains unfinished to this day. The bottom half is decorated in marble, and the top half is simple brick.

Although there’s not much to see inside, the church is everything we love about Bologna: unfinished and not trying to impress anyone.

But, there is a very interesting feature in the church. The astronomer Giovanni Cassini paved a meridian line into the isle in 1655. With phenomenal precision, the line allowed Cassini to calculate the tilt of the earth’s axis and the timing of the equinoxes.

San Petronio also contains the oldest organ in the world still capable of belting out a tune. It was built in 1470. Not bad, huh?

2. PIAZZA MAGGIORE

Piazza Maggiore is the main square in Bologna and the heart of the historic town.

Dating back to 1200, it’s one of the first squares in Italy built after the fall of the Roman Empire.

Today, the Bolognese come here to eat ice cream, listen to concerts and scoff pizza in the charming streets that feed Piazza Maggiore.

All roads seem to lead to Piazza Maggioare and you’ll often find yourself gravitating here as you stroll the town.

It’s a great place to hang out and explore the mishmash of architectural styles that have developed over the years around the square.

3. BASILICA DI SANTO STEFANO

The complex of Basilica di Santo Stefano dates back to the 5th century and at one time comprised 7 churches. Today, only 4 remain in an interlocking series of ancient architectural elements.

It’s an incredible place to visit, and although it often doesn’t appear high on many visitors’ priorities, we highly recommend going.

Entry is via the 13th-century Chiesa del Crocifisso, a barren building with high domes and arches in worn brick.

A door to the left at the back leads into the remarkable Church of the Santo Sepolcro. This is an evocative space designed to look like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Octagonal walls rise to a starred dome, and a dramatic crucifixion hangs over the altar.

Next is the pleasingly simple and unadorned 11th-century Santi Vitale e Agricola. Bare stone walls are laced with shards of light from small high windows. It’s a step back into another time.

After the basilica, we had a coffee in Piazza Santo Stefano. It’s a little overpriced but the triangular space leading towards the old church is a lovely spot to sit and people watch.

4. THE ANATOMICAL THEATRE

The medical school in Bologna conducted public dissections of human bodies at the Teatro Anatomico.

A marble table at the centre is surrounded by tiered seating with Apollo (the God of medicine) peering down from sunken panels in the ceiling.

Carved wooden statues of famous physicians adorn the walls. The most notable is a local doctor who was the first to attempt plastic surgery.

You can pick him out by the nose, he is holding in his hand.

Also don’t miss the two wax statues of skinned human bodies holding the university chair. 

We loved the colourful frescoes in the Palace of the Archiginnasio, the entrance to the theatre.

5. THE PORTICOES OF VIA DI SAN LUCA

In the early 12th century, the wealthy of Bologna expanded their upper floors to increase living space. Soon, columns were required to support them, creating the signature landmark of Bologna.

Today, there are around 38 kilometres of porticoes in the city, and they have been recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Portico di San Luca is the longest in the world (and the city) and walking it’s an unmissable thing to do if you are able.

It starts at Porta Saragozza and continues for 4 kilometers up a hill to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, passing over 600 vaults.

The first section runs along via Saragozza before crossing the road on a beautifully ornate bridge.

The section after the bridge is the most picturesque section of the porticoes of Bologna.

From here it’s a hefty climb to reach the Church of San Luca. There are lovely views from its panorama terrace, but we would not recommend spending the €5 to go up the dome.

A less exhausting option is to get a taxi to the top and walk back downhill. 

6. ASINELLI TOWER (CURRENTLY CLOSED)

Asinelli and Garisenda are Bologna’s two main towers. They are the city’s top tourist attractions, but unfortunately, they have been closed for some time due to structural issues.

They were built to signal the prestige of the families who commissioned them; a trend similar to nearby rival Siena.

These medieval showpieces have watched over Bologna since the early 12th century.

As the highest of Bologna’s 24 towers, Asinelli has 500 steps to reach the viewing platform at the top. When it does reopen, it’s well worth doing.

From the top, the views of Bologna are stunning. Terracotta roofs stretch out in all directions, bouncing golden light back at you.

OTHER THINGS WE LOVED IN BOLOGNA

The following were some of the biggest surprises for us in Bologna. Some of the churches, in particular, have the most interesting architecture we’ve seen in a long time.

7. PINOTECA NAZIONALE DI BOLOGNA

The National Art Gallery of Bologna was born from the need to rehouse works of art that were suppressed by either the church, Napoleon or both.

Today, the 13th to 18th-century art follows the progression from Byzantine to Renaissance styles in a collection we were thoroughly impressed with.

It’s a very manageable museum. There are a few wonderful pieces, but it doesn’t overload you with a cumbersome collection.

The highlights for us were Christ and the Good Thief by Titian, The Visitation by Tintoretto, and Madonna of the Sparrow by Guercino.

You’ll also find works by Raphael and Reni.

The gallery is well laid out with information panels in English and a handy map to help navigate the space.

Free entry – The gallery is free to enter on the 1st Sunday of the month.

8. THE QUADRILATERO

The Quadrilatero is the medieval market area of Bologna stretching from Piazza Maggiore to the two towers.

There is great shopping in the Quadrilatero and you’ll find everything including fruit stalls, high-end fashion, fish markets, and bakeries.

The area comes alive in the evening with both locals and tourists elbowing in for a perfect position amongst the hustle and bustle.

We really loved Osteria del Sole, one of the oldest inns in Bologna. They provide the wine and you bring your own food. Classic Bolognese style.

Alternatively, you’ll find plenty of excellent places crammed into the tiny laneway. Just stroll along and pick one you fancy.

9. CHIESA DELLA MADONNA DI GALLIERA

The Church of the Madonna di Galliera felt like a bit of a find for us in Bologna.

From the outside, the concrete façade gives no clues as to the ornate details waiting on the inside.

Originally founded in 1304, the interiors were refurbished in the 17th century and the effect is stunning.

Painted frescoes adorn the cupola ceiling with artwork hanging from intricately carved niches. Cascading light streams from high windows create an ethereal effect in the beautiful space.

Sweet Spot – After exploring the church, we had a coffee at Caffè Letterario – Sebastiano Caridi just across the road. The coffee was so-so, but it’s worth going for the handcrafted chocolate, delicious pastries and the cool location under the porticoes.

10. BASILICA DI SAN FRANCESCO

The Basilica di San Francesco is a lovely under-visited church in Bologna.

It was built in a variety of different styles including Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance.

A solidarity market is held in the church courtyard under a quadrangle of porticoes. You can find a selection of well-worn goods on sale with the proceeds support the church’s various charities.

Markets are held in the church grounds throughout the year, they are:

• The flea market takes place between May and June.
• The San Francesco Market is in September and October.
• The Christmas market starts on the last Sunday of November and runs until early January.

If the markets coincide with your trip, we highly recommend popping along to see what’s going on.

EATING & DRINKING IN BOLOGNA

Bologna is known as ‘la dotta, la grassa, la rossa’ or ‘the learned, the fat, the red’.

The fat owing to the profusion of excellent produce coming from this gastronomic region of Italy. The nearby town of Parma is famous for prosciutto di Parma. Modena for its balsamic vinegar. The entire Emilia Romagna region for Parmigiano Reggiano.

Food is something you absolutely must do in Bologna. There are plenty of guides out there that specialise in Bologna’s culinary scene, and everyone has an opinion about food, but these are some of the experiences we loved.

11. BAR HOPPING IN BOLOGNA

The food in Bologna is often considered some of the best in Italy. The way we loved to enjoy it was by grabbing a bite with a glass of wine and then hitting the next place along some orange-tinted laneway.

Here are some great bars where you can enjoy a glass of wine with a few specialities.

Enoteca Storica Faccioli // Open since 1924, they know their stuff and it’s a great place to find an excellent (and cheap) wine. The flatbreads are excellent.

La Prosciutteria // A rustic, welcoming restaurant where tourists and students mingle on old fruit crates. They have a great selection of cold cuts and sandwiches.

Medulla Vini // With in organic wines from Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia, Medulla Vini has a cosy position under the porticoes. It’s a great place to enjoy quality wine while watching the world go by.

Caffè Rubik // A bohemian bar in the university district with a pop-art vibe set under one of the city’s ancient porticoes. They have the best amaro list in Bologna – the liquor made from herbs and roots.

Enoteca Italiana // A more traditional wine shop in a large space. They have several tables dotted among the wine shelves offering a vast global selection.

12. DINE OUT AROUND MERCATO DELLE ERBE

Mercato delle Erbe is a traditional covered market with fruit stalls, cheeses, and Italian cured meats.

It’s a good place to potter around during the day, but the entire area comes alive at night. Some of the best restaurants in Bologna can be found around the market.

Here are some we are more than happy to recommend:

Rush // This corner bar has a great position overlooking the hubbub surrounding the market. Moody music wafts into the street and the drinks are well-priced.

Oltre // For an upmarket dinner head to Oltre. The well-renowned kitchen does trendy Italian cooking respecting tradition and modern techniques.

Ahimé // Just around the corner from Oltre, the innovative Ahimé has a minimalist design and a regularly changing menu. It’s great for a iversion from traditional Italian cooking.

Tigelleria Tigellino // The perfect venue for relaxed handheld street food. Try lassic Italian sandwiches, a diverse selection of cheese, and great values wines.

051 Mercato // Classic Italian dishes in tables set out along the street. It’s one of the best places in Bologna to try the classic Tortellini in broth.

13. APERITIVO ON VIA DEL PRATELLO

There are plenty of places to enjoy the delightful tradition of aperitivo in Bologna. But our favorite spot was the cool strip along the lively Via del Pratello.

Aperitivo takes place between 6:30 pm and 8:30 pm, where you’ll get some free snacks with your drink.

There are plenty of places to try – walk along the street and stop at one that takes your fancy.

For dinner, we highly recommend Il Rovescio for the decidedly good pizza (especially for vegetarians).

There are also street food joints, lively bars, and traditional trattorias and osterias.

It’s a great part of Bologna, where you’ll feel like you’re one of the locals.

14. TAKE A FOOD TOUR IN BOLOGNA

Food is such an integral part of Bologna’s culture that it’s hard not to be moved by the locals’ passion for it.

While the world knows the city for Bolognese, there are plenty of other great dishes to try.

One of the most popular foods after Bolognese is Tortellini, the small stuffed pasta parcel. Served in soup, it’s called Tortellini in brodo, and it’s a popular winter warmer.

Another classic is Balazoni, the bright green-filled pasta flavoured with spinach. Gramigna all salsiccia is a delicious hollow pasta tube served with sausage in a creamy sauce.

• Walks of Italy – Walks of Italy do fantastic food tours, and its Bologna offering is no exception. It includes 9 tastings and 3 drinks.
• Bologna Food Walking Tour – Watch fresh pasta being made from scratch then sample the goods on this well-rated tour.
• Full-Day Food Tour – This tour visits family-run producers in the area and includes a family-style lunch.

OTHER THINGS TO DO IN BOLOGNA

Bologna is a lovely city with a delightfully local vibe, which we thoroughly enjoyed.

However, not all the attractions of the Red City made our list. If you have more time, here are some other things to do in Bologna.

Without being too negative, we’ve tried to explain briefly why we wouldn’t recommend some of these places if this is your first trip to Bologna.

NEPTUNE’S FOUNTAIN

Fontana del Nettuno is an impressive 16th-century fountain considered a masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture. The Maserati brothers used the trident held by the statue of Neptune above the trickling waters as the emblem for their cars.

You don’t need to make a special trip to see Neptune’s Fountain, it’s on the square just beside Piazza Maggiore so you’ll stumble across it at some point.

CANALE DI RENO

Bologna has a canal network created in the Middle Ages to transport goods and water. Most are now covered and only a few sections are visible. Canale di Reno is the best section, but you only need a couple of minutes to grab a quick photo like the one below.

MUSEO DELLA STORIA DI BOLOGNA

The History of Bologna Museum is a whistle-stop tour through Bologna’s backstory. There is no English on the information boards, but you can pick up an audio guide to help explain what you are looking at.

MUSEI DI PALAZZO POGGI

There are several rooms making up the museums at Palazzo Poggi. The most interesting is the Human Anatomy Museum which has a collection of waxwork fetuses. There is also a Natural History Museum, a Museum of Ships and Geographical Maps. They could all be interesting; however, none are set up well for non-Italian speakers.

MUSEO INTERNAZIONALE E BIBLIOTECA DELLA MUSICA

The International Music Museum and Library has an interesting collection of old instruments. It’s also located in a lavishly decorated house. Their key item is the original score of Rossini’s Barber of Seville in Room 7 complete with the old leather binding.

MAMBO

Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna or MAMbo, like any good modern art museum, wrestles with social commentary and political power. Unfortunately, it’s also a little indecipherable. If you decide to visit, the History of the 21st Century by Italian artist, Renato Guttuso is a highlight.

DAY TRIPS FROM BOLOGNA

Bologna’s location in the Emilia-Romagna region makes it the perfect gateway to explore northern Italy. There are several great day trips from Bologna from the nearby rolling hills of Tuscany to Milan.

Here are some suggestions.

• Parma – Visit the home of Parmesan cheese and Parma ham in this beautiful Emilia-Romagna city. (1 hour by train from Bologna Centrale to Parma)
• Modena – Famous for balsamic vinegar and the home of Ferrari, Modena has a beautifully preserved UNESCO World Heritage Site old town. (25 minutes by train from Bologna Centrale to Modena)
• Florence – Enjoy the remarkable things to do in Florence on a day trip from Bologna. (40 minutes by train from Bologna Centrale to Firenze Santa Maria Novella Train Station)
• Milan – Enjoy the fashion capital of Italy overflowing with cultural landmarks and world-class museums. (1 hour, 15 minutes by train from Bologna Centrale to Milano Centrale)
• Venice – Stroll the canals and admire the grand architecture of Venice on a day trip from Bologna. (1.5 hours by train from Bologna Centrale to Venezia Santa Lucia)

WHERE TO STAY IN BOLOGNA

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TIPS FOR VISITING BOLOGNA’S ATTRACTIONS

IS THE BOLOGNA WELCOME CARD WORTH IT?

The Bologna Welcome Card provides access to various museums, the Asinelli Tower, plus a guided walking tour for €25 per person.

You can book it online before you arrive, or pick it up from the Bologna Tourist Office in Piazza Maggiore.

If you visited the Bologna attractions we listed in this guide, the Welcome Card is not worth it.

However, if you stay for a bit longer and visit the History Museum and the International Music Museum and do the walking tour, it will pay for itself.

BOLOGNA ATTRACTIONS OPENING HOURS

Pick up a guide with the opening times for all Bologna’s attractions from the Tourist Information Office in Piazza Maggiore when you first arrive as hours vary considerably.

Generally, most museums are closed on Mondays and most churches shut over lunchtime for two to three hours.

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